By Linda Lauby | Photographs by Steve Alterman & Linda Lauby

I grew up in Wisconsin, in the pre-culinary enlightenment era. At that time "grits" was not an accepted noun; "grit" on the other hand, was what you found inside a gizzard when you were cleaning wild ducks, or it was a specification in buying sandpaper. It was certainly an ineffable characteristic found in many Midwesterners — especially those whose young daughters went duck hunting or helped construct spec homes as part of their "character building" experiences.

My escape from cheeseland has brought many a splendrous thing, including an introduction to grits, which happen to be really, really good with shrimp. For anyone unaccustomed to grits, they’re merely hulled yellow corn kernels that have been ground into meal. But that’s just the beginning. Add any number of ingredients, and you’ve entered epicurean enchantment. Most supermarkets carry only quick-cooking grits, but you can find the more flavorful white hominy grits in gourmet and specialty shops.

For the shrimp and grits recipes that follow, we used fresh, large Carolina shrimp, shelled, skewered and grilled with just a sprinkling of kosher salt & pepper. Always cook shrimp until just done; overcooking makes them tough and causes shrinkage — something nobody wants. Figure at least six large shrimp per person for the following recipes.

This year's recipes are in the Epicure